Pic

Pic
Michalak's Vireo Resting at Spruce Run (T. Clarke)

Sunday, June 18, 2017

Can We Make a 12' Oar Cruiser?

I think the answer is "Yes"...

Jim Michalak's Vireo is 12' (3.66m) long, 45" (114.3cm) wide and about 60 pounds (27kg) empty. Made with 3 sheets of 1/4" (6mm) plywood. I've rowed this a number of times... found it very stable, easy to row and surprisingly fast for a 12' boat... sustained speed at 3.5 mph (5.6 kh) and 'sprint' to about 5 mph.

This is an overview of the plans, with a picture of my friend Paul's Vireo.
Vireo Plans

Vireo at Round Valley Resevoir, NJ
To convert this to an 'overnight cruiser', I would make the following additions:

- Full deck with cockpit opening 4'6" (137cm) long, 2'6" (76cm) wide and 13" (33cm) deep to the top of the floorboards.

- Overall cockpit 6'6" (198cm) long, extending under the foredeck.

- Aft deck (crowned about 2" (5cm) 2'6" (78cm) long. The after bulkhead moved aft 6" to support the deck.

- The fore deck (also crowned) 5' (1.5m) long and the forward bulkhead moved forward to enable full 6'6" interior length of the cockpit.

- Oar locks installed on short outriggers (removable) hooked onto the coaming.

- Appropriate hatches to allow access to the fore and aft waterproof compartments.

- A full length cockpit floor to provide a flat sleeping area and provide adjustable stops for the rowing seat and footrest.

- Two bows to support a cover at night.

- Note that the only changes to the original planned construction are the movement of the two bulkheads. All else are additions.

- I'd estimate the weight of the completed Oar Cruiser to be approximately 100 pounds (45kg).

Pictured below is an 8:1 scale model of the conversion described above, with 8' (2.4m) spoon blade oars.
Proposed Conversion of Vireo: Scale 8:1

Top View of Model















Looking Forward
Cockpit Interior, Seat, Foot Rest and Outriggers





















I can picture rowing down Barnegat Bay (NJ) in the late fall after all the jet skis are put away... listening to the gulls and terns... a cold breeze keeping the perspiration at bay... anchoring at dusk... tucked into a shallow cove behind a sedge grass knoll... buttoning up the cover and settling down to a hot cup of coffee and meal of Dinty Moore beef stew... roll out the sleeping pad and bag... sweet dreams!

Please comment with your thoughts: What do you LIKE about this conversion? What do you DISLIKE? What SUGGESTIONS would you have to make it a more useful Oar Cruiser?

Originally published January 16, 2016.



Sunday, June 11, 2017

Laying In a Waterline

You’ve built your boat, but now you want to lay in a waterline so that you can:

  1. Know where the bottom paint and the topside paint meet and/or
  2. Know where the fiberglass sheathing on the bottom stops and/or
  3. Know where to paint a boot-top of contrasting color (or boat-striping-tape). Note: I’ve used this West Marine tape and it has held up for three seasons with no peeling or discoloring… highly recommended (I have no connection with West Marine.)

First Step: Determine waterline END locations

Using the waterline marked on the plans for the boat, mark with a pencil about 1” to 2” inches (25 to 50mm) above (toward the sheer line) where the plans specify.

OR

Put the boat into shallow water, load it (with people, sand bags, etc.) as you will normally be paddling, rowing, sailing, motoring and mark at the bow and stern about 1” to 2” inches above water level.

Second Step: Mark proposed waterline

See this Tips From a Shipwright video. The video shows the technique I used on my Ross Lillistone Flint. As shown in the video, use a tight string between the two horizontal supports, marking the waterline with either a pencil or short pieces of masking tape. You can do this by yourself, no help is needed. This technique is useful if the boat is NOT level, either fore and aft, or side to side.

Horizontal Stick at the Stern for Laying in a Waterline...

...and at the Bow.

A variation of this technique, which requires two people, is to set up the horizontal sticks as above. One person is the ‘marker’ (using pencil or short pieces of tape) and the other person stays at least one boat length away and sights across the two sticks, telling the ‘marker’ where to mark the waterline. I used this technique on an earlier boat I had with my wife as the ‘marker’. Worked well.
Another technique is to use a laser level such as this, (if you already have one!) . This can also be done by yourself.

You can level the boat (so that the bow and stern marks you did in the first step are level) by using a long clear plastic tube filled with water taped to the bow and stern and then moving the boat so that the water level in both ends are at the marks you placed in Step 1. Once the boat is set up ‘level’, take one end of the tube (making sure you don’t spill any water from the tube), walk around the hull, marking  every 6” the proposed waterline.

If the floor under the boat is level and flat (mine isn’t) and you have ‘leveled’ the boat as in the paragraph above, then just use a stick held vertically on the floor to mark the proposed waterline.

Third Step: Mark the full waterline

Using the guide pencil marks (or pieces of tape), lay in a continuous strip of masking tape around the hull. The ‘keel’ side of this tape will be the edge of the bottom paint and fiberglass cloth (if used).

When I glassed the bottom of Lillistone Flint, I laid in the waterline using blue painter’s tape. I then taped newspaper sheets to this ‘waterline tape’ in order to prevent any epoxy from dribbling onto the topsides. When I epoxied the cloth to the bottom, I overlapped the tape by a half inch (12mm) or so.

I then spread about four layers of epoxy on the cloth (sanding between each layer) until the weave was totally filled (each mixed with graphite powder). Epoxy dripped down over the tape and newspapers. When it had all thoroughly dried, I was able to lift the waterline tape, flex it up and down a couple of times, and the epoxied cloth broke off cleanly at the edge of the tape. There was no need to cut the cloth with a knife.

After the hull was painted, I used the West Marine Boot Top Tape, slightly overlapping the top edge of the fiberglass cloth.

Let us know of any other techniques you have used to lay in a waterline.

Sunday, June 4, 2017

Paul Gartside’s Flashboat


Paul Gartside's Flashboat is a fast rowboat, capable of handling rough water and easily converted to an oar cruiser by adding SOF decks and a tent arrangement for shelter at night. He also uses an innovative construction technique that results in a very light boat that can be easily car-topped.

Paul’s commentary:

“The Flashboat is a family favorite with its roots in England's West Country. This is a modified version of a Cornish racing skiff. Its construction is unusual, with thin marine ply bent in two directions, which gives high strength for very low weight. It is also more of a challenge to build than most plywood designs. Light, graceful and a dream to row, the design has also proved itself to be a versatile, dependable cruising boat. We have wandered far and wide in our Flashboats. During the summers of 1995 to 1997 we took one 3500 miles down the Yukon River, north up the coast, through Bering Strait and on to Barrow.“

Paul Gartside's Flashboat

The lines drawing above shows why she would be very easy to row... and fast. She would be very tender initially, but have great stability in rougher conditions... 3500 miles (5633km) on the Yukon River and Bering Strait demonstrate that rough water capability.


Flashboat Awaiting Calmer Surf During the Yukon River/Bering Strait Cruise

Construction...note how the full-length keel helps provide directional control

Specifications:


  • Length: 15' (4.6m)
  • Beam: 4' 6" (1.4m)
  • Depth amidships: 16.5" (419mm)
  • Weight: 90 lbs (40.1kg)
  • Sailing rig: dipping lugsail (Downwind only, no centerboard, daggerboard nor leeboard)
  • Sail area: 47 sq .ft. (3.4 sq. m)


Paul on construction:

“It is built of four strakes of 1/8 in. plywood laid over a grid of sawn plywood frames and longitudinal stringers. Plywood this thin can be bent (tortured) into a compound curve, and in the bending becomes a very stiff structure. Building hours are very low (180 hours or so), but there is a little more to this than more conventional plywood construction. It has a properly rabbeted stem; also some patience is required to work the lower strakes into place.”“This building method requires very little temporary work. The frames are sawn from 3/8 in. plywood, left long and set up on the building frame. The backbone assembly notches into them and the transom is fitted. Longitudinal stringers are notched into the frames at the plank lands. Planking is glued and fastened to the backbone and stringers with temporary screws. In order to stiffen the bottom, the floorboards are also let into the frames before planking.”
Flashboat would make a beautiful, fast and sea-worthy oar cruiser... let us know what you think.

Sunday, May 28, 2017

Scilly Gig 15

Boatplans.cc lists a number of plans for rowboats, sailboats and power boats. One of those designs is the Scilly Gig 15 designed by Bateau.com. She could be converted into another nice oar cruiser.

Lines of the Scilly Gig 15

Description from the Designer


The Scilly Gig is named after a type of very fast row boats that originated in the Scilly Islands, UK and despite what the name sounds like, is designed for the serious oarsman. She is fast: a top speed of 4 mph (6.4 kmh) can be achieved at 25 strokes per minute and at a quieter pace, she will cover more than 3 miles per hour (4.8 kmh). There is a standard and a light version. The light version uses 4mm marine ply and the standard version is made with 6mm marine ply. No compromise has been made to rowing performance for a single crew but if needed, she can carry a passenger and gear without any problem: the pounds per inch (25mm) immersion is 115 lbs (52 kg). A second rowing position is provided by the forward seat. Seats can be rearranged to suit.


 Key Dimensions

Length overall 15' 6" (4.72 m)
Beam 3' 8" (1.12 m)
Weight 80 (36 kg) or 100 lbs (45 kg)


Scilly Gig 15...

...Interior

Conversion to an Oar Cruiser


Similar to other conversions posted, we would suggest the following:
  • Replace the forward and aft frames with full bulkheads containing large waterproof hatches. This would result in a cockpit approximately 7' (2.1m) long below the decks.
  • Eliminate the center two frames (and seat).
  • Triple the fiberglass taping on the interior of the two chines to provide additional strength.
  • Install fore and aft decks leaving a cockpit opening approximately 4.5' (1.4m) long. The decks could be made Skin-On-Frame to save weight.
  • Add floorboards to provide an anchor for the portable foot brace and rowing seat as well a dry platform for sleeping. See this post as an example. 
  • Add a temporary shelter such as one of these these.

Origins of the Scilly Gig

The following is from Wikipedia: 

The Cornish pilot gig is a six-oared rowing boat, built of Cornish narrow leaf elm, 32 feet (9.8 m) long with a beam of four feet ten inches. It is recognised as one of the first shore-based lifeboats that went to vessels in distress, with recorded rescues going back as far as the late 17th century. The original purpose of the Cornish pilot gig was as a general work boat, and the craft is used for taking pilots out to incoming vessels off the Atlantic. At the time, the gigs would race to get their pilot on board a vessel first (often those about to run aground on rocks) in order to get the job and hence the payment. 
Today, pilot gigs are used primarily for sport, with around 100 clubs across the globe. The main concentration is within Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly, however clubs exist in Sussex, Somerset, Devon, Dorset, Wales and London. Internationally, there are pilot gig clubs in France, the Netherlands, the Faroe Islands, Australia, Bermuda, and the United States. 
All modern racing gigs are based on the "Treffry", built in 1838 by William Peters of St. Mawes, and still owned and raced by the Newquay Rowing Club. However non-racing gigs have been built which do not conform to the exact specification of the Treffry and are disallowed from racing in competitive races.

Cornish Pilot Gigs Racing

The Scilly Isles


Aerial View of Scilly Isles that are Located....

...40 Miles (65km) West of "The Lizard" (Southern most point in England)


Your thoughts?

Sunday, May 21, 2017

Devlin's Duckling...

Sam Devlin’s Duckling is a beautiful, light weight and fast boat that can be rowed with either sliding seat and/or fixed seat.

Sam Devlin's Duckling (S. Devlin)


Specifications:


  • Length 17′ 3.6″ (5.3m)
  • Beam 3′ 5.75″ (1061mm)
  • Draft 5.25″ (133mm)
  • Displacement 346 lbs (157Kg)
  • Hull weight 95 lbs (43Kg)

Plans:


Sam Devlin's Duckling Profile... (DevlinBoat.com)

...Layout...(DevlinBoat.com)


...and From Dead Ahead (DevlinBoat.com)

Description: 

(Quotes from Dale McKinnon’s article in April 2016 issue of Small Boats Monthly
“…The Duckling 17 is very stable…” 
“…Generally, faster boats sacrifice stability for speed, but in six hard pulls I had reached a GPS-measured 5.7 knots. With a waterline length of 15′ 7-1/8″, the Duckling 17’s theoretical hull speed is 5.3 knots. I settled down to a little over 5 knots at about 22 strokes per minute…” 
“…Although Devlin envisioned the Duckling 17 as a performance rowing craft, not as a load-carrying boat, I’d consider adding battens on the sides during construction to provide a place to attach plastic or metal pad-eyes. With bungee cords and dry bags you’d have secure load-carrying capacity for fast touring coastal waters…” 
“…I’d add a Venturi auto-bailer to take care of any water that might get shipped in rough seas…” * 
“…The thought of arriving comfortably at a destination 20 miles away half an hour sooner is quite appealing. I have no hesitation in recommending the Duckling 17 as a boat for fast and light touring, as well as recreational and open-water rowing.”
(From the Duckling Site Description) 
“Sleek lines and a beautiful sheer make the Duckling a delight to row and own. She is light and responsive and easily handled, providing great exercise for the single oarsman. As a three-panel per side design, she’ll glide through the water nearly effortlessly.
At 95 lbs. the Duckling 17 is a very car-toppable boat, easy for one person to handle. Folding pattern oarlocks and eight foot spoon blade oars give her a lot of power.”

Converting to an Oar Cruiser:


For oar cruising, including sleeping onboard, the following would need to be done:

  • Provide floorboards that span the V-bottom… see here and here for examples.
  • Provide shelter for sleeping, cooking, etc…. see here and here for examples.
  • Provide fore and aft, and possibly side, decks which could be skin-on-frame to minimize weight.

This would make a beautiful and fast oar cruiser that would take you through most any inland waters.

* For a Venturi style bailer, see Duckworks


Sunday, May 14, 2017

Peapods

“(Peapods) were used by fishermen first as fishing boats, then as lobster boats. They had to be reliable and trustworthy in big waves and had to be easy to row. They also had to resist capsizing as the heavy weight of the lobster traps was hauled over the edge. The fishermen would sometimes row their peapods standing up, using longer oarlocks, looking forward to steer around obstacles and islands. They would also sit facing backwards and row.”
John Gardner, in his book Building Classic Small Craft, tells us that peapods were developed on the coast of Maine in the mid-1800s…
“Long familiarity with the canoe and its good qualities had stamped the image in minds of the fishermen so that later on when the special needs of the lobster fishery called for husky, easy-rowing boats, some of these would naturally turn out to resemble the canoe… the typical Pod was…15’ (4.6m) in average length; both ends exactly alike.” 

Construction of Peapod (MaineBoats.com)

Peapod at Work (MaineBoats.com)


Examples of Currently Available Peapods


Grapeview Point Boatworks offers both a 13’ (4.0m) and 15’ (4.6m) Peapod that can be sailed and rowed.

Grapeview Point Boatworks' Peapod

Specifications:
Length                  13 ft.                     15 ft.
Beam                    52in.                     52in.
Draft
   C/B Up:            3 in.                       3 in.
   C/B Down:       18 in.                     18 in.
Approx. Weight  125 lbs. (56.7 kg)  140 lbs. (63.5 kg)
Sail Area             54 sq ft. (5 sq. m)  58 sq ft. (5.4 sq. m)

==========

Arch Davis offers plans and kits for a glued plywood lapstrake peapod.

Arch Davis's 12' Peapod

Specifications:
Length over all:  12′ 3″ (3.7m)
Length waterline:  10′ 7 1/2″ (3.3m)
Beam:  4′ 5″ (1.3)
Draft, board up:  0′ 6″ (0.15m)
Draft, board down:  2′ 3″ (0.7m)
Sail area:  61 sq. ft.  (5.7 sq. m)
Weight:  85 pounds.

==========

Charlie Hussey of Marine Carpentry offers  a beautifully finished carvel planked Peapod.

Charley Hussey's Peapod; Construction Detail...

...and Overview...

...and Sailing

Specifications:
Length: 14.8’ (4.5 m)
Beam: 5’ 3” (1.6 m)
Draft: 3’ (0.9 m) (centreplate down)
Displacement: 330 lb. (150 kg)
Sail area: 80.7 sq. ft. (7.5 sq. m) (sloop rigged standing lug)

Peapod Plans


John Gardner, on pages 132 and 138 of Building Classic Small Craft, shows plans for two Peapods.

A 14' Rowing Peapod

A 15' Sailing Peapod
Note the differences between the two designs:
  • The sailing version has a 6" (152mm) deep keel to provide lateral resistance while sailing -- no center board. The rowing version has a keel only for construction purposes.
  • The sailing version has a flat bottom leading to 'hard' bilges to provide more stability for sailing. The rowing version has a slight "V" bottom leading to relatively slack bilges to reduce wetted surface and provide some directional stability.
The plans for the rowing version (page 138) include a full table of offsets.


Please let us know if you have a 'peapod'... send me photo(s), description and your experience with it. Send to tomoarcruising@gmail.com and I'll add a post.

Sunday, May 7, 2017

Iain Oughtred’s “Mole”


If you want a traditional rowing boat, built in the traditional manner (plank on frame) then Mole would be a good choice.


Iain Oughtred's Mole


From "InTheBoatshed.net" Sept 1, 2007

Iain’s description:
“Mole is based on the traditional Thames working boats or water taxis. This a traditional rowing machine, with the capacity to carry one or at the most, two passengers. she is set up for a single rower, and the use of thole pins rather than fancy modern row locks is a feature.”
Plans Overview

Specifications:

  • LOA: 16’ (3.9m)
  • Beam: 44.5” (1130mm)
  • Depth: 16” (380mm)
  • Weight: 115 pounds (52kg)

See Iain Oughtred (Click "Catalog" >> Rowing Skiffs, scroll down to Mole) for plans and kit information.)

Tuesday, May 2, 2017

CATCH: Rowing the Everglades Challenge

Steve Price, in his blog describes, in detail, his experience rowing a RowCruiser in the 2017 Everglades Challenge... a narrative that describes the trials, tribulations and excitement of a very demanding 'cruise'.

Sunday, April 30, 2017

Bolger's Cartopper as an Oar Cruiser

In January 2017, we posted a review of Bolger's Cartopper. In that review, we suggested it could be converted into an oar cruiser. Using the plans published in Bolger's book, Boats with an Open Mind (page 25), I built an 8:1 model to illustrate how Cartopper could be converted without changing the hull shape.

Specfications


Cartopper is11’6” by 4’ (3.5m by 1.2m), double chine with a bottom 2’ (61mm) wide…loaded (one person) water line width is about 3’ (91mm). She is built with taped seams from 4 sheets of plywood and weighs approximately 90 pounds (40.1 kg) as designed. Oars are 8' (2.4m) long.

Overview


This photo shows the floorboards in two sections so they can be removed from the sleeping compartment/cockpit that is approximately 7' (2.1m) long (between waterproof bulkheads located where frames 1 and 3 are in the plans), with the cockpit opening of 4' (1.2m). 3" (76mm) high coamings are added to the fore and aft decks. The king and queen planks are Western Red Cedar with the decks mitered into the edges. Inwales are added to the cockpit sides to strengthen the topsides because frame #2 has been eliminated.


Bolger's Cartopper

In this view, the foot of the mast under the foredeck, butted up against the forward bulkhead, is locked into the maststep at the forward edge of the floorboards.


Rudder Controls


Rudder


The Mik Storer style holstered rudder is controlled by a shockcord (on the port side ending in a jam cleat) and on the starboard side by a control line running forward to the inwale.

At the bottom of the rudder holster there is a horizontal plate that is at waterline level. This plate matches in size the plate on the bottom of the rudder blade. These two plates increase the efficiency of the rudder, regardless of how deep the rudder blade is immersed.


Bottom of the Rudder 'Holster'

The plate on the bottom of the holster needs to be extended to the back of the rudder blade, but still open at the back so that the blade can pivot back if grounded.


Rudder Assembly 


Sailing


Downwind sailing is powered by a 14 square foot (1.3 sq. m) sail hoisted on an 8' (2.4m) mast that is built in two 4' sections held together with a 1 & 3/4" ID (45mm) Carbon Fiber Oar Ferrule available from Duckworks. The two 4' sections and the sail can be rolled up and stored in the cockpit.


Cartopper with Downwind Sail

The sail is controlled by two sheets. The sheets run from the sail back to a dead eye, forward to a bollard and then to a jam cleat. The bollard idea came from Yrvind February 25, 2017 post.



Sail Controls

To help control downwind tracking, a 2 & 3/4" (70mm) deep full length skeg is added. The idea for this came from Clint Chase's Drake (see construction photos).


Full Length Skeg


Shelter


The 'tent' shelter is supported by the mast. The foot of the mast has a small 'lip' on the forward edge which hooks under the king plank on the forward edge of the mast slot. Headroom under the tent at the after end of the cockpit is 42" (1.1m).

Mast as Shelter Support

The forward coaming is slightly relieved by a 1/2" (13mm) to keep the mast from sliding side to side. Just forward of the coaming are two dead eyes to provide anchors for a tie down that holds the mast on the coaming. Note that the mast slot is closed by a plug, held in place by shock cord, while rowing (not shown here).


Hold-down for the Mast Used as Tent Support


Tent Shelter in Place

This view, looking aft, shows the bottom of the large waterproof access hatch in the bulkhead which provides not only flotation, but many cubic feet of storage space while cruising.


Cockpit Looking Aft to the Bulkhead Access to Storage 

This oar cruiser really appeals to me: Compact, pretty, and ideal for weekend cruising in waters that jet skis and large cruisers can't reach.

Comments very welcome!


Sunday, April 23, 2017

Richard Woods Bee: An Oar Cruiser

Richard Wood's Bee is one of two similar 'oar cruisers'... the other is Linnet.

Peter Kovacsy's Bee

Plans Overview of Bee

Specifications


  • Length: 16’ (4.86m)
  • Beam: 4’ 3” (1.3m)
  • Weight: 108 pounds (49Kgs)
  • Carrying capacity:  4 Adults
  • Optional sail: 38 sq ft (3.5sqm)

Plans  available from:

Richard Woods
Duckworks
Fyne Boat Kits

Richard’s Commentary:

“BEE has a Vee bow which allows her to slice through a choppy sea. The moderate freeboard midships with reduced windage fore and aft plus the built in dagger-board case mean that sensible owners can take her out in coastal waters, in addition to all inland waterways.
BEE can also be fitted with a simple low rig for offwind sailing or when the crew is feeling lazy. Because of its light weight and easily driven hull, BEE will surprise with her speed. BEE can easily be rowed for long periods by one, or even by two… there's room for passengers and lots of gear. She is stable, so you don't need to be an expert to handle her.
Because of her light weight BEE can easily be cartopped, opening up many more cruising grounds. BEE is very easy to build using just 3 sheets of 4mm (3/16") and 3 sheets of 6mm (1/4") plywood, plus some timber and epoxy.”
Bee Car-topped

Peter Kovacsy site is a photo essay of his building Bee… His photography is beautiful, as well as his workmanship on Bee... as attested to by the following two photos...

Transom of Peter Kovacsy's Bee

Peter used Gaco locks on his Bee

This is an oar cruiser that is sea worthy, stable and able to carry a full set of equipment and supplies for cruising.

Sunday, April 16, 2017

The Wherry...

There are a number of ‘wherry’ types. For example, the ‘trading wherry' is double-ended, typically clinker planked, black hull with a white bow to aid visibility at night. They are gaff rigged, the sail historically black from being treated with a mixture of tar and fish oil to protect it from the elements. Sizes varied, but many of these vessels would carry about 25 tons of goods. Wherries were able to sail off the coast of England, off load cargoes from ships and then transport it inland through the broads and rivers.

Albion, One of 8 Surviving "Trading Wherries" (Photos: Wikimedia Commons)

Another type of wherry (more in keeping with the theme of this blog) was used as water taxis operated by watermen in Elizabethan times. These wherries were rowed by two men with long oars or by a single waterman using sculls. In 1555, Parliament specified that a wherry should be "22½ feet long and 4½ wide…”.

Thames River "Taxi" Wherries

In North America, particularly in the Penobscot Bay area (State of Maine), wherries became the preferred boat for the longshore Atlantic salmon fishery. They are generally long and narrow, with a straight stem, a wineglass stern and usually carvel planked.

John Gardner writes that the single characteristic that distinguishes a wherry is its flat bottom that allows the boat to ground out in an upright position and serves as a shoe for dragging the boat up and down the beach. The boat usually has two seats, one for the rower, and one in the stern sheets for the passenger, although longer ones can have a third seat forward. (Wikipedia: Wherry)

Both the wherry and the Thames Skiff (which evolved from the Wherry) are the lineage of many modern versions of “wherries”…

Modern Examples


Annapolis Wherry
  • Length: 17'9" (5.4m) 
  • Beam: 38" (0.97)
  • Hull weight: 65 pounds (29kg)

Annapolis Wherry from Chesapeake Light Craft


Cosine Wherry

  • Length: 14’ (4.3m)
  • Beam: 52” (1.3m)
  • Hull weight: 125 lbs. (57kg)


Cosine Wherry from White Salmon Boats

Duck Trap Wherry

  • Length: 16' (4.9m) 
  • Beam: 4'-2" (1.3m)
  • Hull weight: 145 pounds (65.8kg) or 100 pounds (45.4kg) for glued lap version


Duck Trap Wherry from Duck Trap Woodworking

Ruth (SOF) Wherry

  • Length: 18' (5.5m)
  • Beam: 33" (84cm)
  • Hull weight: 45 pounds (21kg)

Ruth Wherry from Dave Gentry

Oxford Wherry

  • Length: 15' 9" (4.9m)
  • Beam: 38: (0.97m)
  • Hull weight: 53 pounds (27kg)

Oxford Wherry from Colin Angus

Wineglass Wherry
  • Length: 14' (4.3m)
  • Beam: 48: (1.2m)
  • Hull weight: 90 pounds (41kg)

Wineglass Wherry from Pygmy Boats

Wherries make beautiful, sea-worthy and easy rowing boats. Let me know of other examples.