Wednesday, October 28, 2020

Phil Bolger's Cartopper as an Oar Cruiser

Note: In an earlier post, I stated this concept model to be Jim Michalak's Oarcle design. Oarcle and this extended Cartopper are very similar. I was confused.

 In a Jan. 8, 2017 post we introduced Bolger's Cartopper. On Apr. 30, 2017 we presented a 'sail/oar' version which converted the 12' (3.7 m) Cartopper to a cruiser. Described here is the Cartopper extended to 15' 6" (3.81 m) to create an Oar Cruiser.

A Proposed Oar Cruiser (Rowmance) Based on Cartopper

Bow, Showing the 'Fairlead' Used for Anchoring. See How This 'Fairlead' is 
Used for Anchoring at End of This Post.

Cockpit with Rowing Seat and Foot Rests Clipped to Floor Boards

Shelter Provided by PDR Tube Tent (See Shelters)

Specifications:

  • Length: 15' 6" (4.7 m)
  • Beam: 43" (1143 mm)
  • Water Line Length: 13' 10" (4.2 m)
  • Water Line Width: 37" (940 mm)
  • WLL/WLW Ratio: 4.5:1
  • Weight: (Est.) 100 lbs (45 kg.) with added decking
  • Hull  Speed: 5.0 knots, 9.3 kph, 5.8 mph
  • Cockpit length; 7' (2134 mm) 
  • Span is 4' 3" (1295 mm) needing 8' (2438 mm) or 8' 6" (2591 mm) oars 

Changes to Make the Oar Cruiser:

  • Added decking forward and aft, ending at the two bulkheads, with hatches let into the decks to provide access to the compartments
  • Added side decks to help support 4" (102 mm) coaming surrounding the 4 sides of the cockpit opening which also supports the outriggers. See here for how these outriggers are used.
  • Added cross-slatted floorboards. See Floorboards to see how foot rests are 'clipped' to cross-slatted floorboards.

Summary-Pros:

  • For plans I used Bolger's book, Boats with an Open Mind, (Chap. 7).
  • Reduced the height of the stem and transom slightly and raised the freeboard midships, all to reduce windage (but not changing the underwater lines in any way.)
  • The resulting boat will be sea-worthy, comfortable and provide sufficient dry storage needed for week-long singled-handed cruises.

Summary-Cons:

  • She will not be the fastest Oar Cruiser, but will certainly be able to maintain 3 knots. (Three knots for 45" an hour for 10 hours a day is 25 miles.)
  • 100 pounds (45 kg) and moderate LOA would make car-topping difficult for one person. 
This extended version of Cartopper worked out very well and would be an excellent Oar Cruiser.

Monday, October 26, 2020

Mark Wallace's Black Skiff Strip Built

 In an earlier post we introduced Mark Wallace's Black Skiff. In this post we'll present a variation in which construction is done with strip planking. The result is a model of Mark's design using his free plans.

Overview

Profile

Fish Eye View

Modifications of the Design:

  • Strip planked rather than the plywood panels in the original design.
    • In the model, I used 1/32 (0.34 mm) by 1/8 (3.175 mm) strips.
    • If I were to make a full sized boat, strip built, I'd use 1/4 " (6 mm) strips ripped from 3/4 "(19 mm) Western Red Cedar planks and router one edge concave and the other edge convex using router bits set such as these.
    • I set up three forms (adapted from the frames on the plans) mounted upside down on a ladder frame. (Note that the next time (model or full size) I'd use five forms.)
    • I laminated and installed the two stems attached to the bottom.
    • I then installed the flat bottom. The sizes and shapes of both stems and the bottom came directly from the plans. 
    • I then laid in and glued the strips starting at the bottom and working 'down' to the gunnels. (Note; Installed each strip on alternate sides of the boat).
    • Because the center frame was eliminated, reinforced the topsides by installing an inwale separated from the hull by spacer blocks.
    • Installed two full sized bulkheads 7' 4" (2235 mm) apart centered midship. Each bulkhead has a15" by 18" (381 mm by 457 mm) hatch to provide access to the respective compartment.
    • Installed two decks crowned 2" (51 mm) running from each bulkhead to the stem and stern.
    • Provided a rowing seat that rests on slats attached to the hull.
    • The span of 4' (1219 mm) called for oars 8' (2438 mm) long.
    • Added floorboards.

    Specifications:

    • LOA: 14' 3" (4.3 m)
    • Beam: 4' 2" (1270 mm)
    • Water Line Length: 11' (3.4 m)
    • Water Line Width: 33" (838 mm)
    • WLL/WLW Ratio: 4:1
    • Hull  Speed: 4.4 knots, 8.14 kph, 5.1 mph

    Summary-Pros:

    • Will keep you safe in very rough conditions.
    • Plenty of waterproof storage for supplies (and emergency flotation.)
    • Easy to row.

    Summary-Cons:

    • Limited speed due to short WLL.
    • High windage would make rowing in a crosswind difficult.
    • Need to provide shelter for overnight sleeping using one of these alternatives.

    Black Skiff would make a very comfortable and pretty Oar Cruiser that would be welcome in any waters.

    Saturday, October 24, 2020

    Paul Butler's Pacific Troller Dory

     Paul's Pacific Troller Dory (PTD) is one of my favorite designs for an Oar Cruiser. See Nov.13, 2016 and Apr. 2, 2017 for variations on the design. Following is my most recent version.


    PTD as an Oar Cruiser



    Duck's Eye View


    Bird's Eye View


    Modification to the Original Design to Create an Oar Cruiser:

    • Lengthened the hull by 2' (610 mm). The hull is double-ended. So the plans only include half the boat. By extending the chine line by 1' (305 mm) from the center line of the plan, the boat will be 2' longer. 
    • Reduced the size of the (two) stems to 3" (76 mm) and added 2" (51 mm) to the height of the sheer line midships. Drew a smooth curve through these 3 points, creating a reverse sheer as pictured below.

    Profile of PTD Showing Reverse Sheer

    • Added two full-sized bulkheads at the same location as in the plans, 3' 10" (1168 mm) from the stems. These bulkheads have large hatches to provide access to the two storage compartments. The resulting cockpit is 7' (2134 mm) long.
    • Added decks (crowned 2" (51 mm)) fore and aft  and side decks 9" (229 mm) wide at midships resulting a cockpit opening of 5' (1524 mm) long and 1' 11" (584 mm) wide.
    • Added a 3" (76 mm) coaming on all 4 sides of the cockpit.
    • Even with the top of the side coamings, attached two 1" by 1" (25 mm) by 4' (1219 mm) oak ribs (one on the inboard side of the coaming and one on the outboard side) for holding the oar outriggers. 
    • Each of the two oar outriggers are triangular in shape with a 'base' of 12" (305 mm) and a 'height' (base to oar lock) of 1' 8" (508 mm). This generates a span of 4' 10" (1473 mm) on PTD. Either 9' (2743 mm) or 10' (3048 mm) oars would be suitable for this span. 
    • Attached to the full width of the bottom of the 'base' are two "L" shaped pieces (photo below) that enable the outrigger to slide fore and aft on the oak ribs on the coaming (a tight fit so they don't slide with pressure at the oar lock end of the outrigger) and yet stay horizontal and stay in their fore and aft position on the top of the coaming.

        Side View of One Outrigger        

    • Added full-length cross-slatted floorboards to provide a dry sleeping platform as well as anchor points for the foot rest and rowing seat.


    • On the foredeck is a 5" (127 mm) high splash guard for any water washing over the foredeck.

    Splash Guard and Anchor Cleat

    Specifications:

    • Length: 17' 4" (5.3 m)
    • Beam: 48" (1219 mm)
    • Water Line Length: 14' 4" (4.37 m)
    • Water Line Width: 33" (838 mm)
    • WLL/WLW Ratio: 5.2:1
    • Hull  Speed: 5.1 knots, 9.45 kph, 5.9 mph

    Summary-Pros:

    • Large enough to hold sufficient supplies and equipment for extended oar cruising.
    • With the added midship's freeboard, reduced windage at the ends, large decks and a dory's deserved capability for handling rough water, she can handle any rough water you may encounter in most inland waters.
    • The narrow bottom (20", 508 mm) and high WLL:WLW ratio (6.2:1) make this an Oar Cruiser that will get you to your next waypoint in good time.

     Summary-Cons:

    • Heavy enough to be awkward to car-top.
    • Initially tender, as are all narrow-bottom hulls.
    • Protection from rain (and bugs) must be provided using one of the many 'shelter' techniques in this site. 

     Mid-fall Cruise in Barnegat Bay:

    I could envision a mid-fall cruise down Barnegat Bay in this Oar Cruiser after most of the boats have gone to rest for the winter; anchoring off the many state/national parks and wildlife refuges south of Barnegat Inlet. Trailer parking and launch site at the east end of the Manahawkin Bridge would be good starting/end point. Weather would be cool, no bugs.  Thousands of migratory birds provide lots of companionship.

    Thursday, October 22, 2020

    Jerome Delaunay's Scow 244

     Not exactly an Oar Cruiser. It's a Sail/Oar Cruiser... emphasis on SAIL. It's 8' (2.44 m) long with a hull design very similar to the PDR, of which there are many variations. There is room to sleep aboard and carry supplies/equipment for a multi-day single-handed cruise. 

    Modifications:

    • Added oar locks to the forward end of the cockpit and included 8' (2.44 m) oars which need to be that long in order to work with the height of the locks above the water. The rower would stand, facing forward and push the oars to row. See Rowing Geometry for how to calculate that 8' (2.44 m) oars will work with a span of 3' 6" (1067 mm) and locks 2' 3" (686 mm) above the waterline.

    • Added a large hatch over the compartment forward of the mast. This compartment could be used for storage of the anchor and other wet/muddy items.

    • Rather than a solid bulkhead aft (supporting the forward edge of the rear deck), I opened up the bulkhead to provide more sleeping space resulting in a sleeping platform 6' 10" (2083 mm) long. 

    • If I were to build it full size, I'd increase the width of the side compartments from 6" (152 mm) to 9" (229 mm) to provide more storage capacity and only narrow the sleeping area by 6" (152 mm) (to 30" (762 mm)).

    • I'd make a drop-in framed bug screen that would fill the top of the rear bulkhead and to which the rear edge of the 'canvas' cover would be attached.

    • I'd add a simple removable thwart that spanned the storage compartments that could be used while sailing.


    Compartments on both sides, from bulkhead to bulkhead, provide storage. 
    The cockpit opening is covered with 'canvas' to provide a rain-proof night time.
    The horizontal handle on the pivoting leeboard should be pointing aft, not forward.



    The cockpit opening is 45" (1143 mm) long by
    36" (914 mm) wide while the sleeping platform
    is 6' 10" (2083 mm) long and 36" (914 mm) wide.


    The 'junk sail' is 65 sq. ft. (6.04 sq. m)
    Oars to be stored on side decks when sailing.

    Specifications:


    LOA: 8' (2.4 m)
    Beam: 4' 1/2" (1232 mm)
    Weight: 150 lbs (68 kg)
    Displacement loaded: 630 lbs (286 kg)
    WLL: 7' 3" (2210 mm)
    WLW: 4' 0" (1232 mm)
    WLL/WLW ratio: 1.8:1
    Hull speed: 3.6 knots, 6.7 kph, 4.0 mph

    Plans:


    The free plans for the Scow 244 are available from Duckworks.


    Summary-Pros:

    • Very complete plans leading to a straight-forward build
    • It has 26" (660 mm) headroom under the 'cuddy'
    • Storage space for supplies
    • Comfortable sleeping area 
    • Oar propulsion for maneuvering in tight spaces 
    • The PDR style hull has proven to be reasonably sea-worthy; A number of PDRs have sailed the Texas 200

    Summary-Cons:

    • Short WLL will result in a slow boat
    • As with any boat this small, headroom is an issue


    Tuesday, October 20, 2020

    Glossary

     Terms used throughout the blog:

    ·        3-, 4-, 5-, 6-, 7-Panel: The number of plywood panels making up the hull. A 3-panel hull (John Wellsford's Mollyhawk) has 2 side panels and 1 bottom panel. Michalak's LFH17 has 7-panels.

    ·        Aft: towards the back of the boat.

    ·        Andersen Mini Bailer: Available at Duckworks, [https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/ra554130.htm]

    ·        Back: As the wind direction changes, the direction can shift counter-clockwise (back) or the new direction can shift clockwise (veer) from the old direction.

    ·        Broach: As a boat is overtaken by waves, the stern of the boat rises and the boat starts to slide down the front of the wave. If the bow of the boat 'digs' into the back of the wave in front, the boat can suddenly turn (left or right) and end up sideways, a 'broach', and possibly flip over.

    ·        Bow: (Rhymes with "allow"). The front-end of a boat.

    ·        Bulkheads: Vertical panels (typically water-proof) within the hull that divide the boat into multiple sections.

    ·        Carvel planked: Similar to lapstrake, but rather than have the planks 'lap' over the next plank below, the plank edges are glued/epoxied edge to edge as in strip planking.

    ·        Car-top: Carrying the boat on top of the car's roof rack.

    ·        Chine: Looking at the hull from one end, the chine is the 'corner' where the bottom of the hull intersects with the sides of the hull.

    ·        Chine panel: The panel in the hull that replaces the 'corner' of the chine. It is the panel on each side of the bottom panel in a 5-panel hull.

    ·        Coaming: Typically 3- to 5-inch (76- to 127-mm) high barriers to prevent water from washing off the decks into the cockpit.

    ·        Cockpit: The space in a boat that is typically used to operate the boat.

    ·        Crown: the curve of a deck from one gunnel to the other gunnel.

    ·        Dagger-board: Used in a sailboat to reduce the tendency of a sailboat to go sideways when the wind is coming from the side. The Dagger-board trunk is the apparatus that holds the board vertical yet allows the board to be moved up and down without letting water into the hull.

    ·        Displacement: The weight of the boat, plus everything in the boat (people, supplies, equipment).

    ·        Double-ended: A boat that is pointed at both ends, such as a canoe.

    ·        Drop-in Rowing Unit: A rowing unit consisting of outriggers to provide span for the oar locks, foot braces, and a rowing seat that slides on rails. An example is the Piantedosi unit sold by CLC Boats and other vendors.

    ·        Flare: In boats, 'flare' refers to the angle of the sides of the hull from the vertical. A boat with no flare has sides that are vertical while a boat that has sides that are angled out 30 degrees (such as a "dory") has a lot of flare.

    ·        Floor boards: Typically made from wood and rest on the bottom of the hull in order to provide a small space between the bottom and where a person would stand, sit and/or lie down.

    ·        Floatation: That which keeps a boat from sinking when it is filled with water.

    ·        Foot braces (also known as foot stretchers): What the rower pushes against (with her/his feet) when rowing.

    ·        Fore: means front, toward the bow of the boat.

    ·        Frame: Various uses. In general, it is a set of 'sticks' that support either the deck or the sides and bottom of the hull. The frame can become an integral part of the boat, or can be a support system for building the hull of the boat, but does not become part of the boat after the hull is constructed. The latter are also referred to as Forms.

    ·        Freeboard: The vertical distance from the water to the gunnel at a given point.

    ·        Gunnel: The strips of wood that define the 'sheer-line' at the top of the hull sides (also known as gunwales).

    ·        Hatches: the 'doors' that close off openings that are either in the decks or in the bulkheads. They allow access to enclosed spaces in the boat and are typically water-proof when closed.

    ·        Hull speed: An approximation of the maximum speed (in knots) that an Oar Cruiser (any 'displacement hull') can travel. The formula; speed in knots equals 1.34 times the square root of the water line length (WLL) in feet. It is the speed at which the length (crest to crest) of the bow wave equals the WLL of the boat. Going faster than hull speed means that the boat is attempting to climb up the back of the bow wave. This article [http://antrimdesign.com/heavy-boats-light-boats-and-hull-speed.html] has an excellent explanation.

    ·        Inwale: The inner-most component of the 1, 2, or 3 pieces of wood that make up the gunnel. If used with a second inwale, the two inwales can be thinner (lighter) than just one, and they are typically separated by spacer blocks to create a girder-like support for the edge of the hull.

    ·        Knot: The nautical measure of speed; 1 knot equals 1.85 kilometers per hour and 1.15 miles per hour.

    ·        Lapstrake: Construction of a boat hull in which each strake (plank) over laps the top of the strake below.

    ·        Length of a boat (LOA): is the overall dimension from the bow to the stern.

    ·        Lines: 1. The drawn lines on the plans for the boat; as in "…keeps the underwater lines as designed." 2.  "Lines" also refers to ropes used on a boat; as in "…tie the bow line to the cleat on the dock."

    ·        Load waterline: The "line" on the hull made by the surface of the water when the boat is 'loaded' (with people, supplies and equipment).

    ·        Midships: In the middle of the boat.

    ·        Oar Cruising: Using small, oar-powered boats to cruise in where 

    Small means you can either car-top or trailer it by yourself, 

    Oar-powered means the primary propulsion is rowing and 

    Cruise means you can sleep in it and carry all the food and equipment you'll need for at least a week without re-supplying.

    ·        Oar locks: The "U"-shaped metal fittings that provide the pivot point for the oars.

    ·        Outriggers: In the context of row boats, outriggers are supports for the oar locks that extend beyond the sides of the hull.

    ·        Reverse Reading Compass: Available at Duckworks, [https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/rs-rrc.htm]

    ·        Rowing seat: The support for the person rowing.

    ·        Seaworthy: Refers to the ability of the boat (assuming a competent crew) to survive in less than ideal weather conditions.

    ·        Sheer: The top edge of the hull. Sometimes referred to as the sheer-line. The sheer-line can be straight, curved with lowest point of the line about 2/3 back from the bow of the boat, or it can be a 'reverse sheer' in which the ends of the sheer-line are lower than the middle portion.

    ·        Skeg: A fin attached to the bottom of the boat's centerline, typically starting at the transom. Provides directional stability as the boat moves forward.

    ·        Skin friction: As the hull moves, water applies frictional force to the hull surface (skin) which slows the hull, taking energy to overcome.

    ·        Sneak Box: One-person boats originally designed for hunting ducks (also known as Duck Boats) in which the deck is fastened to the bottom of the hull at the gunnel. The shape of the hull looks like the cross-section of a closed Clam.

    ·        SOF (Skin-On-Frame): A hull that consists of a light frame over which a layer of polyester or nylon water-proof cloth is attached.

    ·        Span: The distance between oar locks, typically 50% of the oar length for fixed seat rowing.

    ·        Splash guard: A "V" shaped barrier attached to the deck to prevent water washing over the deck from entering the cockpit. Typically used in low freeboard hulls and with coamings.

    ·        Stem: The (near) vertical piece of wood that joins the forward edges of the two (or more) side panels of the hull.

    ·        Stern: the back-end of a boat.

    ·        Strip plank: A method of building the hull of a boat by attaching to frames narrow (1- to 2-inches (25- to 51 mm)) strips of wood, glued edge to edge.

    ·        Tender: For boats, it is how 'tippy' a boat is. A kayak is very tender. A garbage scow is NOT tender, it's very stable.

    ·        Thwart: A narrow (10- to 12-inches (254- to 305 mm)) seat used for sitting that goes from one side of the hull to the other side. It typically also serves to strengthen the hull by bracing the two sides of the hull.

    ·        Topsides: The sides of a hull (verses the bottom and deck).

    ·        Transom: A (near) vertical panel at the end of the hull to which the sides, chine and bottom panels are attached, closing off the end(s) of the hull.

    ·        Trimmed: (As in, "Cartoppers row well as long as they're trimmed with one person…"). All the weights in the boat (people, equipment and supplies) are distributed so that the boat remains 'level' side to side and end to end; i.e., that it is floating parallel to its designed "load waterline".

    ·        V-bottom: A hull in which the end view of the hull's bottom forms a "V" (as opposed to a 'flat bottom' or 'round bottom' hull.

    ·        Veer: As the wind direction changes, the direction can shift counter-clockwise (back) or the new direction can shift clockwise (veer) from the old direction.

    ·        Wales: The strips of wood on the inside of the hull at the sheer line. Often there are two wales, the inner wale and the outer wale. These two wales are also referred to as the inwales. The two wales are often separated by a set of blocks so that the wales act as a girder to strengthen the edge of the hull. A second (or third) strip of wood on the outside of the hull at the sheer line is called the rub rail. The terminology for these strips of wood vary by designer/region/country.

    ·        Water Line Length, WLL, is length of boat at the waterline.

    ·        Water Line Width, WLW, is width of the boat at the waterline at the widest point.

    ·        Waypoint: A point on a chart or GPS screen that identifies the next location to be reached. Waypoints mark points on the chart/GPS screen which reflect the proposed passage of the boat.

    ·        Width of the boat: is the dimension at the widest point on the hull that measures from gunnel to gunnel.

    ·        Windage: Exposure to the wind which results in 'wind resistance'. 

    ·        WLL is length of boat at the waterline.

    ·        WLL:WLW is the ratio of these two dimensions. In general, the higher this ratio, the faster the boat can move.

    ·        WLW is width of the boat at the waterline at the widest point.


    Wednesday, October 14, 2020

    Jim Michalak's Robote as an Oar Cruiser


     In the Feb 19, 2017 post, we documented Jim's Robote and described a possible Oar Cruiser conversion. This post is another Oar Cruiser (Rowmer) based on the same Robote design.


    Overview of Model Reflecting Changes Described Below


    Transom Sloped Forward Approximately 30 Degrees

    Bird's Eye View (8' 2438 mm) Oars


    Demountable and Adjustable Outriggers  


    Reverse Sheer Giving Reduced Windage Fore and Aft

    Specifications as an Oar Cruiser Pictured Above:

    • Length: 16' 6" (5 m)
    • Beam: 45" (1143 mm)
    • Weight:  Approximately 90 pounds (40.1 kg)
    • Water Line Length: 16' (4.9 m)
    • Water Line Width: 36.5" (927 mm)
    • WLL/WLW Ratio: 5.3:1
    • Hull Speed: 5.4 knots, 10 kph, 6.2 mph

    Conversion to an Oar Cruiser:

    • Lengthen the hull to 16' 6" (5 m) by spacing the 14 stations an additional 2" (51 mm) apart.
    • Lowered the top of the stem 9" (229 mm), raised the sheer at midships by 3" (76 mm), lowered the top of the transom by 5" (127 mm) and drew new sheer line intersecting these three points to create a reverse sheer.
    • Used full-sized bulkheads at stations #3.75, #5.25 and #10, each crowned 1" (25 mm).
    • This created 2 forward compartments, a 7'  (2134 mm) cockpit and an after compartment.
    • Added fore and aft decks to create a cockpit opening (at deck level) of 5' (1524 mm).
    • Added side decks approximately 6" (152 mm) wide midships.
    • Provided access to #2 compartment forward and the aft compartment through 2 hatches, each 18" by 12" (457 mm by 305 mm).
    • Cross-slatted floor boards were added to provide a dry support for the sleeping pad/bag as well as anchors for the rowing seat and footrest.
    • A V-shaped splash guard and 3" (76 mm) coamings provide protection from water entering the cockpit from the deck. 
    • The outriggers are adjustable (fore and aft) and can be easily removed by sliding forward on the reinforced coaming.
    • A reverse reading compass would be installed on the after hatch.
    • On the fore deck is a cleat and deadeye to enable anchoring without climbing on the deck. See description at the end of  this post titled "Anchoring an Oar Cruiser."
    • Shelter would need to be provided using one of the many examples described in this blog.