Lightning Protection

It's not 'lightning prevention', it's lightning protection.

BoatUS published an article in 2015 identifying the probability of lightning strikes as a function of type of boat and size of boat.

Table 1. The probability of a lightning strike by type of boat, 2003–2013 

Type of Boat                                          Chances per 1,000
Multihull Sailboat                                   6.9
Monohull Sailboat                                  3.8
Trawler/Motoryacht                               1.5
All – Overall Average                            0.9
Bass Boat, Runabout, Pontoon Boat    0.1 

Table 2. The probability of a lightning strike by size of boat, 2003–2013

Type of Boat Chances per 1,000
0-15 Feet         0
16–25 Feet 0.2
26–39 Feet 2.1
40–64 Feet 6

The same article also identifies what to do if you are caught out on the water when there is lightning:

What To Do If You're Caught Out On The Water 

"When thunder roars, go indoors." If there is time, return to shore and take shelter in an enclosed building (not open-sided) or your car. They are not impervious to lightning, but the lightning is less likely to do damage.
But if lightning has already begun, getting closer to shore may bring you close to trees and other objects that could be lightning targets. In that case, stay on the boat and do the following:

• Go indoors — go down below. Stay in the center of the cabin if the boat is so designed. If no enclosure (cabin) is available, stay low in the boat. Don't turn yourself into a lightning rod! 

• Keep arms and legs in the boat. Do not dangle them in the water. 

• Discontinue fishing, water skiing, scuba diving, swimming, or other water activity when there is lightning or even when weather conditions look threatening. The first lightning strike can be a mile or more in front of an approaching thunderstorm cloud 

• Disconnect and do not use or touch major electronic equipment, including the radio, throughout the duration of the storm. 

• Lower, remove, or tie down the radio antenna and other protruding devices if they are not part of the lightning protection system. 

• To the degree possible, avoid making contact with any portion of the boat connected to the lightning protection system 

• On larger boats with an oven or microwave, putting electronics inside should prevent them from being damaged as the oven or microwave will act as a Farraday cage, allowing the charge to pass harmlessly through the metal around the devices."

From University of Florida's "Boating-Lightning Protection" by William Becker

Another article worth reading is Lightning-Proof Your Boat. Note especially the damage done to the electronics through “electromagnetic induction” and “side flashing”… scary stuff.

An article in BoatUS provides more information. The author is James Coté “…an electrical engineer, ABYC Master Technician, Fire Investigator and Marine Investigator. He operates a marine electric and corrosion control consulting firm located in Florida. For more information, go to: www.cotemarine.net” 

Following are excerpts from DWFORUM in April 2017 in which contributors shared their personal experience in dealing with lightning: 

"I have relied on the stainless stays on the sides with a 2’ square of copper sheeting mounted below the water line and a flattened 1/2” pipe to carry the stay anchor point over the edge to the plate. I’m not sure how effective it is at the top relative to the radio mast, but the connection to the water should be fine. I’ve never known it to be tested, however!"
Tom Schultz Apr 3, 2017

"My Paradox does have lightning protection as per plan.  It consists of a copper strap which leads from the top of the mast directly through the boat to the water."Andre-Francois Apr 3, 2017

"The static wicks on an airplane are only meant to dissipate the static charges that build up from the friction of air rushing over the skin.They do nothing against lightning. The skin of the aircraft is your protection, as electricity only travels on the outside of a metal object. Composite aircraft get a layer of metal mesh like window screen to provide this protection. In a boat, just like on land, a metal cage or can is your safest place in a lightning storm.So carry a metal garbage can you fit into on the boat, or build a cage of wires into the cabin for crew safety. A cable from the mast to the water will keep the hull from damage."Josh (Rowerwet) Apr 5, 2017

"...that's what we did on Dad's Wharram. He had a permanent rod off the backstay coming off above an insulator and running down under water and a pair of thick jumpers we'd deploy off the shrouds if we were out in dicey conditions."
Michael Burwell 4/11/17

Yawls

"Yawl" – from the Dutch “jol”
"Yawl" – a two-masted sailboat in which the rearmost mast (mizzenmast) is aft of the rudder post… a classic example is Olin Stephens' Dorade…

Olin Stevens' Yawl Dorade (52' [15.9 m] by 10' 3" [3.2 m])

(Canoe) "Yawl" – a two-masted large canoe-shaped sailboat popular in the late 19th century such as the Iris…

Yawl Canoe Iris...

Iris lines...

...and Specs.

(Source for Iris information above -- scroll to bottom of this linked page.)


"Yawl" – a four or six oared small boat used as a tender for large sailing vessels (A small ships boat, usually rowed by four or six oars. (Webster's dictionary 1828))

HMS Victory Yawl Boat

---

The term “yawl” (in rowing craft) is rather loose in modern usage, often interchanged with Wherries  and Whitehalls. Rowing versions of “yawls” are typically characterized by ‘round’ bottom lapstrake hulls with ‘wine-glass’ transoms and vertical stems. Given the wide meaning of the term “yawl”, following are some examples of various yawls that could be oar cruisers.

Modern Adaptations:

CLC’s Chester Yawl

"Boats like the Chester Yawl were used as working craft in 19th-century.  Efficiency was critical in these human powered craft, so they evolved easily driven hull shapes.  Working watermen weren’t immune to good looks, either, so these “livery boats” were often beautiful.  The most famous of the type, the “Whitehall” boats of New England, are still considered a touchstone of small craft elegance.  The Chester Yawl is based on the Whitehall and adopts its distinctive plumb bow and “wineglass” transom." (From CLC writeup)

Chester Yawl from CLC: 15' (4.6 m) by 42" (1067 mm)

This would be a very effective and beautiful kit-boat oar cruiser… I’d add SOF decks fore and aft and provide for temporary shelter such as these.

Selway-Fisher's Dronheim Yawl

This is a large ‘yawl’ for at least two rowers.

Selway-Fisher's Drontheim Yawl Lines

Specifications...

• LOA 21'8" (6.6 m)
• Beam 6' (1.8 m)
• Hull Mid Depth 2'1" (0.64 m)

Commentary from the write-up...

The Drontheim Yawl was designed for the Causeway Coast Kayak Assoc. - this is a traditional Irish open yawl and we have been asked to model her on the computer and develop the 9 hull planks for stitch and tape construction plus frame shapes only - guidance is available for those who need construction details, or we can draw up plans to suit.

---

The following are not true 'oar cruisers', but rather sail boats using oars as auxiliary power. (For purposes of this blog, we define an 'oar cruiser' an oar powered boat with (optional) sails as auxiliary power.)

Selway-Fisher Canoe Yawls

Selway-Fisher has two ‘canoe yawl’designs. The first is the 15’ (4.6 m) Lillie  The second is an 18’4” (5.6 m) version of Lillie called Jim Canoe Yawl.

Description of Lillie from Selway-Fisher

This lovely craft was commissioned by Tom Dunderdale after reading the series of articles in the Classic Boat magazine on the 13’ strip planked canoe yawl Ethel. The idea was to produce a canoe yawl of similar style to those of the last century used by Baden Powell and MacGregor and which formed the basis of modern canoeing today but using modern ply/epoxy construction methods with computer generated plank shapes. Her length is based upon the maximum length of plank that you can get out of 2 sheets of ply and we have increased the beam a little over the original Ethel design which allows more extensive cruising and even the ability to sleep on board. She uses 6 sheets of 6 mm and one of 9 mm ply in her construction. The standard set of plans show details for stitch and epoxy construction using 7 planks per side to give a beautiful round bottom hull shape and details are given for her to be fitted out in classic style with a lug yawl rig. The plans include mould shapes and construction details for her to be made using the strip plank method. Tom reports that up to a force 2 she will sail herself both before and into the wind hands off allowing the helmsman to drink his beer  in comfort. Above that, she handles herself with grace and she rows very well with excellent tracking.

Specifications...

LOA 14'11" 4.53 m
Beam 4'8" 1.43 m
Hull Mid Depth 1' 5" 0.43 m
Draft 8"/2'1" 0.2/0.63 m
Sail Area 106 sq.ft 9.84 sq.m
Approx. Dry Weight 353 lbs 160 kg

Selway-Fisher's Lillie lines...

...and Sailing

Iain Oughtred’s Caledonia Yawl 

(Click on Catalog>>Double Ended Beachboats>>Caledonia)

Specifications...

• LOA:        19' 6" (5.95 m)
• Beam:       6' 2" (1.88 m)
• Sail Area: 170.01 sqf (15.8 sq m)
• Weight:     330 lbs (150 Kg)

Description of Caledonia Yawl from Iain’s website…

I first saw one of these sailing with the gunter yawl rig in Tasmania about 8 years ago. It was a very cold, windy day, white topped waves whipping down the Derwent toward Constitution Dock. The Caledonia Yawl, with it's crew of five, looked very at ease in the unwelcoming Derwent, and I had the feeling that they could have taken much more. 

Iain Oughred's Caledonia Yawl...

...and Profile.

---

Yawls are beautiful boats and in smaller sizes, make outstanding row boats that are fast and seaworthy.

A (Not So) Radical Oar Cruiser

A duck hunting boat, based on a 150-year-old design, as an Oar Cruiser for protected waters.

Sam Devlin's Mallard

The Sam Devlin design is based on the Barnegat Bay (New Jersey) Sneak-box. The big difference between Mallard and the Sneak-box is that the Sneak-box has the deck and the 'round' bottom meet at the sheer line and is carvel planked.

Mallard, on the other hand, is built with plywood, is V-bottomed and has narrow topsides (4-panel). However, though constructed differently, the overall design concept is very similar. The adaptation by Sam Devlin enables Mallard to be easily converted into a small Oar Cruiser for protected waters.
The design is quite capable of extended oar cruising: In 1876, Nathaniel Bishop rowed a Sneak-box (Centennial Republic) 2600 miles (4184 km) down the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, sleeping aboard (under a wooden hatch) many nights. Bishop's book, Four Months in a Sneak-Box is available, free. It's an interesting book that includes maps, illustrations and the full narration of Bishop's voyage through 'Middle America' in the late 19^th century.

Plan Overview of the Centennial Republic

Details of the Centennial Republic

Note that Sneakboxes (15'/4.6 m) and Duck Boats (12'/3.7 m) are two class sail boats still being raced in Barnegat Bay (New Jersey), looking almost like they did 150 years ago.

Overview of Mallard plans

Mallard Specifications:

• Length: 12' 11" (3.9 m)
• Beam: 4' 10" (1473 mm), 8' (2.4 m) oars would be about right for the 4' 4" (1320 mm) span
• Weight: 155 pounds (70 kg)
• Water Line Length: 11' 0" (3.4 m)
• Water Line Width: 58" (1473 mm)
• WLL/WLW Ratio: 2.3:1
• Hull Speed: 4.4 knots, 8.2 kph, 5.1 mph

Commentary from Sam Devlin:

“This is an old and venerable design by now with the first design and boat built more than 20 years ago as I write this. She is of the “SneakBox” type of boat with the transom accommodating up to a 15 hp outboard motor, but she also rows or poles very well. In fact, of all the “SneakBox” types of boats that we design and build, the little Mallard is the best at rowing. There is positive foam 3 point flotation that allows the boat to float level and upright even if the cockpit were full of water.” 

Conversion to an Oar Cruiser:

• To reduce weight, I'd build with ¼" (6 mm) plywood, since I would not use an outboard.
• Reduce the width of the cockpit to about 20"-24" (508-609 mm) and reduce the length of the cockpit from approximately 7' (2134 mm) to 5' (1524 mm) so that only my feet would be under the fore or aft deck when sleeping.
• Make the coamings 4" (102 mm) high and raise the oarlocks at least a corresponding amount.
• Add a V-shaped splash guard to the deck just forward of the cockpit opening.
• Make the floor boards cross-slatted to provide flat sleeping area and anchors for the rowing seat and foot braces. Do not attempt to row for more than a few minutes sitting on the floorboards as in the photo above.
• Add a temporary shelter

Summary-Pros:

• Plenty of storage room for water-proof bags to hold supplies.
• Stable enough to stand up and fly-fish.
• Easy to row at slow speeds.
• Full decks and high coaming ensure safety in any rough water encountered in protected waters.
• Very low windage/profile.
• Ideal size and configuration for (stealthy) exploration of wilderness 'back-waters'.

Summary-Cons:

• Short waterline length and low WLL/WLW ratio (2.3:1) will make her slower than most Oar Cruisers. 
• Too heavy to car-top, but could fit in the back of a pick-up truck.

Selway-Fisher's Windrush

Selway-Fisher's Windrush is a long narrow lightweight rowing boat that would make a beautiful oar cruiser. 

Specifications:

• LOA.......................................................18' (5.49 m)
• WLL.......................................................16' 6" (5 m)
• Beam......................................................2'9" 0.85 m)
• WLW......................................................30" (762 mm)
• WLL/WLW Ratio...................................7.2:1
• Hull Speed..............................................5.4 knots, 10.0 kph, 6.2 mph
• Hull Mid Depth.....................................13" (0.32 m)
• Draft.......................................................4" (0.1 m)
• Approx. Dry Weight...............................66 lbs (30 kg)
• Hull Shape..............................................4 planks per side with wine-glass transom
• Construction Method..............................Stitch and tape
• Major plywood requirements for hull.....6 x 4, 5 or 6 mm exterior or marine plywood
• Guidance Use..........................................3 adults or single use
• Drawing/Design Package........................4 x A1 drawings + 5 a A4 instruction sheets

Selway-Fisher Commentary:

"This skiff has been drawn up for a client who specifically wanted to develop a design optimised for the "Frontrower" rowing system which allows the rower to face forward. For those who do not want to use this system we have included details for the skiff to be fitted out with conventional fixed seat and outriggers—she could also take a sliding seat if required. 

Construction is simple stitch and tape using 4 planks per side but we also include the jig and mould details so that she may be built using clinker ply construction."

 

Windrush...

...under construction...

...clam's eye view.

For oar cruising, including sleeping onboard, the following would need to be done:

• Provide floorboards that span the (slight) V-bottom.
• Provide shelter for sleeping, cooking, etc.
• Provide fore and aft, and possibly side, decks which could be skin-on-frame to minimize weight.

Summary-Pros:

• Windrush's almost round, narrow, V-bottom minimizes skin-friction leading to her being one of the fastest Oar Cruisers.
• A cruising speed of 4.5 mph (7.2 kph) for ten 45" sessions per day results in 34 miles (54 km) a day cruising.
• Addition of decks, coaming and water-proof compartments make her more seaworthy.
• Relatively low windage reduces impact of cross-winds.
• Sufficient storage for extended cruises.
• Boats this long can be car-topped by one person.

Summary-Cons:

• The narrow hull makes Windrush tender. Consequently, interior space is limited as well as the ability to move around in the cockpit.

Windrush, with minor additions, would be a beautiful, fast oar cruiser... and without these additions, a beautiful fast day boat for one rower and one or two passengers... or for two rowers (and a passenger). 

Jim Michalak's Oracle

Jim's Oracle is similar to Jim's most popular design, Toto.

Max Wawrazyniak's Oracle

Plans Overview...

...and an End View

Specifications:

• Length: 15' 6" (4.7 m)
• Beam: 45" (1143 mm)
• Water Line Length: 13' 10" (4.2 m)
• Water Line Width: 37" (944 mm)
• Weight: 80 pounds (36 kg)
• WLL/WLW Ratio: 4.5:1
• Hull  Speed: 5.0 knots, 9.3 kph, 5.8 mph

Jim, using a GPS found the speed to be 4 mph (6.4 kph) at a 'cruising pace', and 5+ mph (8+ kph) when he pushed hard.

Max Wawrzyniak published an article in Duckworks focused on building Oracle.

Max's Oracle under Construction

Gerry L. also has an Oracle build documented on his site.

Jim has a good article (Rowboat Setup) on setting up the seat and oarlocks to get the correct trim on an Oracle or any other rowboat.

Steve Chamber's Oracle

Oracle would make a fine oar cruiser without affecting the hull design which has proven to be very effective. Possible modifications to create a 'sleep-aboard' oar cruiser include:

• Fore and aft decks made either with plywood or skin-on-frame
• Floorboards to provide dry sleeping platform and attachment points for rowing seat and foot braces
• Temporary shelter.

Summary-Pros:

•         Oracle is easy to build, based on the very popular Toto design of Jim's.
•         Large enough to move around in and to carry all the equipment/supplies you'll need.
•        With the changes noted above, able to deal with any reasonable weather conditions likely to be met.

 

Summary-Cons:

•         Her wider beam slows her speed slightly compared to that of Larsboat.

Oracle, another great design by Jim Michalak: easy to build, good looking, fast.

Why Small...

For me, I’ve always felt that the amount a boat is used is inversely proportional to its weight. I like ‘small’.  This post is about how others feel about ‘small’.

---

Robin Lee Graham, who, starting at age 16, sailed alone around the world in his sloop, "Dove":

"At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much."

---

RLW of the Boat Bits blog, in a post called "So many boats..." on March 31, 2017:

 “…for me what makes a perfect boat to go cruising in is really quite simple...

• It floats right side up
• It does not leak to excess
• It sails well
• It's simple
• It does not require you to go into debt to buy or maintain it
• It's owner fixable”

I especially love the last point... if you can’t fix it, or can’t replace it with something else, maybe it shouldn’t be on the boat.

---

Howard Rice wrote in his blog... (as of 2020, the post is no longer available. Following is my copy of it as of November 2016.)

"Small boats in the hands of a conservative sailor may offer a few advantages larger boats cannot.

1. They are affordable whether new or used.
2. They can be kinetically controlled by movement of body mass by the sailor when underway.
3. They can be easily self rescued if set up properly.
4. Perhaps most importantly they can be hauled on shore when nasty weather looms.

“I have chosen to voyage aboard a small boat for a number of reasons primary of which are, ease of use for the type of voyaging I prefer (some open water crossings to remote and interesting shorelines). Ocean passages are fine but in my experience they can be a bit boring. Most passages aim at getting boat and sailor somewhere to explore. I prefer to get there more quickly, perhaps by trailer and get right after the exploring part. In my case with this voyage (sailing among the islands of Tierra del Fuego) … my boat (a Welsford SCAMP) is being shipped… 

“I also prefer small recognizing ease of handling given my “theory of thirds”* approach and resultant higher degree of safety. Safety is often equated with larger boats but if one stops to consider the question it may be argued that for some applications small may be better than large and this is particularly true for some solo sailors. Safety ranges from handling while upright to the ease and ability of righting the boat if capsized. My boat does feature an inflatable cuddy cabin aimed at keeping her at least on her side when she goes over. I believe she can withstand a 360 roll. 

“*(Theory of thirds)… I think of small boats in terms of thirds, me, the hull and the power generated by the sail rig. In the smallest of boats I can kinetically over power and thus control the hull and power generated by the sail rig.”

---

Mark G. from Ottawa wrote to me in response to a post requesting thoughts on cruising in small boats (used with Mark's permission):

“What are the positive aspects?"

• easily handled by one person
• can be cartopped (no trailer required)
• great for poking around in thin water
• can carry at least 2 weeks worth of supplies for one person (can probably push to 3 weeks)
• agile/nimble and responsive to rower inputs (I've taken mine through rapids)
• can be pulled from the water at the end of the day (esp. if bad weather threatens)
• low maintenance
• easily righted after a knockdown
• no trailer required, no launch ramp required
• no motor needed
• allows you to get to some great areas that have no marinas
• very buoyant and stable in rough water

"The negatives?"

• rowing speed is about 2 - 2.5 knots
• not really suitable for more than 1 person
• difficult to sleep aboard
• need to find a way to rig a sun shade

"Is the slower speed (due to shorter water line length) an issue for you?"

• not really as I'm not out to get from A to B as fast as possible; I'm there to enjoy the surroundings and the experience of being out on the water
• I can keep up with boats in the 16-18' range

"Do you feel they are practical for ‘weekend’ cruises in relatively protected waters?"

• absolutely!
• I think they're good for 2-3 week cruises as long as you like camping

"Would you want one?"

• got one!  It's wonderful (Note: it’s a  Joel White Shellback Dinghy)

"Why, or why not?"

• Even though I'm planning to do a lot of extended (1-2 months) cruising in my Marsh Hen over the next 10 years, it won't beat the simplicity and ease-of-use of the Shellback.  I can reach a lot of areas more easily, faster, and cheaper. In that regard it's a great boat for exploring.  A good step up from sea kayaking, which I also do.”

---

From the Classic Marine site, in an article entitled Small Can Be Beautiful, the author first identifies the reasons that people don’t use the boats they have. He then proposes an answer that responds to virtually all of the reasons people don’t use their current boat. His proposal is to buy/build a small boat… here’s why:

• “Lower initial outlay, or higher quality for the same outlay, or, a solution a number of people find rewarding, a “bespoke” boat for the same outlay. There has perhaps never been as wide a choice of custom - or semi-custom - built boats as there is now. Many are the sort of craft which can give real pride of ownership. 

• Lower maintenance costs - partly because you will need smaller quantities or sizes of items which need replacing - i.e. rope, rigging, paint and so on. It may also be that many of the maintenance tasks could now be done yourself, even if time is short. 

• Lower storage costs - especially if the boat is car-toppable or trailable since you might be able to be based at home, in which case finding the time for maintenance becomes that much easier. 

• Fewer things to maintain, so the boat tends to be easier to keep in good shape, thus increasing seaworthiness and eventual re-sale value. 

• Shorter trips seem more adventurous in small boats , and you can explore smaller creeks impossible for larger boats. Short trips are good for involving the family - if you reckon on 15-20 minutes per year of age maximum per trip for children, you stand a good chance of keeping their interest and enthusiasm, even if you do lose them to the racing circuit for a few years! 

• Finally, the consequences of a minor error of judgement such as unscheduled contact, either with terra firma or someone else’s belongings, are usually less serious in a smaller boat.”

---

Dave and Mindy Bolduc talk about cruising in small boats in their Micro Cruising Guide, in their case, Matt Layden’s Little Cruiser. The whole guide is well worth reading for its insight on two people cruising over 10,000 miles in a boat 15’ (4.6 m) long. Following are excerpts from the Guide related to ‘why small’:

“…Though many people would consider this fifteen footer to be a little Spartan for two, we've found that the boat's small size is one of her strongest virtues. We've trailered her long distances with our aging four cylinder Honda Accord, and we've found it easy to launch the boat at any ramp due to the boat's 9-inch draft. Little Cruiser is simple to sail and to maintain, and her flat-bottomed hull along with her robust construction has proven itself over 10,000 miles (16,093 km) of sailing in all kinds of weather. Most importantly, this miniature yacht has carried us safely six times to the Bahamas. We have enjoyed gunk holing in the shallow and incredibly clear waters in this sailor's paradise, and we have explored many pristine islands and beaches not easily accessible by larger craft.” 

“They track straight, and they will pretty much take care of themselves. Things don't tend to happen too quickly either. If you make a mistake, like an unintentional jibe, nothing horrible occurs. Nothing breaks, and nobody goes for a swim. In addition, these boats don't seem to make a lot of fuss while going through the water. This is probably because they are so narrow, small, and frankly, pretty well designed. What we find most amazing, though, is that we regularly have an easier time going to windward than larger cruising vessels. Because we are so short, we can often fit in between the wave troughs that larger boats aren't quite able to bridge.” 

“Over the years we have thought about moving up to a larger boat to get a little more elbowroom so to speak. However, after watching other sailors handle their big sailboats, we probably won't change a thing because it looks like too much hard work. Cranking on those big winches while tacking back and forth could give us some real nasty blisters, and hauling in those heavy anchors might strain our backs. Moreover, coming into a dock with a large boat could be a real nightmare when there is a foul current running or a strong breeze blowing. You'd better have your fenders and lines ready when you need to stop a few tons quickly. We usually just fend off with our feet and hold on with our hands. Running aground looks like another real headache too. If you can't get free right away, you'll have to jump into your dinghy, lay out an anchor, and kedge off while using your sails to heel the ship over. If that doesn't do it, and you're not in any danger, then you have the pleasure of sitting out the tide on the side of your boat. No, we prefer just stepping off our tiny craft and pushing.” 

“Over the years, one of the nice things we've noticed about having such a small boat is that you simply use it more while you are out cruising because it is fun to sail. These boats handle as easily as a dinghy, and the shallow draft is perfect for exploring up creeks and rivers. Running aground is never a problem when a simple push is all that you need to get going again. We can easily pass under low bridges by dropping our mast to reach new cruising grounds, and we can even land on deserted beaches for a picnic. We've noticed that the typical forty-foot cruiser one sees in the Bahamas tends to drop their anchor and to stay put until they make their next passage. And who could blame them? It's a lot of work to get all that ground tackle down and then back up again. We often move around daily to enjoy the scenery, and we have the luxury of choosing any anchoring spot we like most of the time. In the end, we'll probably just keep cruising along in Little Cruiser because she's easy to handle and she gets us where we want to go with the minimal fuss, the lowest cost and the least effort.”

CLC’s Expedition Wherry

Chesapeake Light Craft (CLC) has a wide collection of small boat plans and kits. The  Expedition Wherry is one example.

CLC's Expedition Wherry by Olav Y. in Stord, Norway

Expedition Wherry using X-Ray vision...

Specifications:

• Length: 18' 3" (5.6 m)
• Beam: 36” (914 mm)
• Weight: 92 lbs. (42 kg)
• Max Payload: 423 lbs. (192 kg)
• Cockpit length: 7’ 6” (2.3 m)
• Water Line Length: 16' 9" (5.1 m)
• Water Line Width: 28" (711 mm)
• WLL/WLW Ratio: 7.2:1
• Hull Speed: 5.5 knots, 10.2 kph, 6.3 mph

From CLC documentation:

“This fast, shapely wherry is intended for serious sliding-seat rowers who are looking for open-water ability and enough payload for camp-cruising.”

Design: “I'm [John Harris, designer of the Expedition Wherry] working within the limitations of a hull design that's really easy to build from a kit.  But I think I got the distribution of volume in the forward third of the boat just right.  It's quite fine down at the waterline, for speed, but with a pronounced 'shoulder' up near the deck to help the bow lift over waves. It's subtle but you can see that feature working in the video footage."

Safety: “Most of the boat is decked in, with only a small "sump" area beneath the oarsman's heels to gather bilge water. An optional Elvstrom-type bailer can dispose of any water that gathers there. There are four separate watertight compartments, all accessible through hatches for gear storage.  The boat has enough stability, and the compartments provide enough buoyancy, that it's possible to climb back into the cockpit after a capsize, bail out, and continue on your way.”

Speed: "At a gentle cruising pace, about 50 percent pressure and 22-23 strokes per minute, you're doing 4.5 knots, or just over five miles per hour. The equivalent of an easy jogging pace on shore. Even with a couple of long breaks, you could cover 30 miles in a day, no problem…The boat is topping out for me around 6.5 knots, or 7-1/2 mph, but I'm not much of an athlete compared to some rowers. A strong oarsman could keep that up for longer than I could!"

Construction: “The Expedition Wherry is a multi-chined plywood boat, with a six-panel hull reinforced by six bulkheads.  The hull is mostly 4 mm Okoume plywood, with fiberglass applied both inside and out.  The computer-cut kit is intricately designed and highly evolved to suit fast and easy construction, including by first-time builders.  Hull panels are snapped together with "puzzle joints," and all of the holes for the temporary wire stitches have been drilled in advance.  Plans builders are provided with full-sized patterns for every part.  An elaborate step-by-step instruction manual, with photos and drawings of every step, accompanies both kits and plans.” 

...Plans overview.

---

CLC has produced a video of the Expedition Wherry with the designer, John Harris, rowing and commenting on the boat.

For me, a row cruiser means you can sleep on board. To do that in the Expedition Wherry, a custom sliding seat would need to be built rather than using the Piantedosi unit that CLC recommends. A sliding seat could run on rails attached to the sides of the hull. One could also eliminate the sliding seat and row only with a fixed seat and outriggers.

I would see two alternatives for providing a flat surface for sleeping aboard:

1. Add a folding platform that spans the (approximately) 3’ (0.9 m) between the two waterproof compartments inside the cockpit. While sleeping, your CG (center of gravity) would be above the bottom, but lower than when you are rowing.
   
   
2. Redesign the two compartments (that are inside the cockpit) to provide room to sleep on the bottom (with floorboards), but still maintaining the maximum amount of flotation/storage in the two outer compartments. 

Regardless of which alternative, provision would have to be made for a temporary shelter tent to provide rain protection.

Summary-Pros:

•        A cruising speed of 4.5 mph (7.2 kph) for ten 45" sessions per day results in 34 miles (54 km) a day cruising.
•        Can be rowed with either sliding seat or fixed seat.
•        Designed water-proof compartments for plenty of storage for supplies and emergency flotation.
•        Fully decked and low profile makes her very seaworthy and little affected by cross-winds.
•        Long narrow boats such as this can be car-topped by one person.

Summary-Cons:

•        Some conversion is necessary to make the Expedition Wherry a (sleep-on-board) Oar Cruiser. 

The Expedition Wherry would probably be the fastest of all the oar cruisers we’ve covered in this blog, capable of handling rough water, and with enough capacity to handle at least a week’s worth of supplies and equipment.

Bolger’s Thomaston Galley, an Oar Cruiser

Actually, it's an Oar-Sail-Motor Cruiser.

Phil Bolger designed the Galley about 1970. Harold Payson had been pushing him for years to design a good rowing boat that could also be outboard powered. The result was the Thomaston Galley. Plans may still be available from H. H. Payson & Company, although they are no longer listed. The plans and description are also in Chapter 8 of Bolger’s Small Boats book published in 1973 by International Marine Publishing Company in Camden Maine. Bolger’s notes and the photos in this post are all taken from the book.

Bolger's Thomaston Galley...

...and sailing with the sprit rig...

...and demonstrating freeboard with 2 people and motor aft.

Excerpts from Phil Bolger’s Commentary

(Regarding the design) "It seemed to me that some deadrise would have to be used to combine enough stability to be reasonably safe and comfortable with the motor in use, and a clean bottom to row pleasantly. With plywood planking specified, that meant a long bow overhang if a hard knuckle in the forefoot was to be avoided. I thought about sneak boxes, where this problem is solved by making the hull very low and building up the sides and ends in way of the cockpit. Eventually it struck me that there was no need to cut down the stern, that in fact if it was built up into a sort of quarterdeck it would produce just that extra buoyancy that was needed to carry the motor, and moreover the combination of low bow and high stern would balance her up in windage and stop the bow from blowing off as it does in most rowing boats." 

(The design in use) "…mine lives on a light trailer in my garage and is used almost entirely for rowing… I average 3.5 mph (5.6 km/h) in good conditions for two hours… I can spurt 5.5 mph (8.9 km/h)… By starting in the morning calm, rowing, and sailing when the wind came up, I’ve more than once covered 25 miles (40 km) or so in a day… She is intended strictly for protected water, of course; by trimming her by the stern she can go through or over a tolerable chop without much trouble under sail or power, but rowing her to windward in open water is a wet and nasty business I take pains to avoid….but in smooth water the Galley rows as well in a calm and better in a breeze… 

(Construction) No problems with the construction have developed in several years of frequent use, including any fair day in winter in my case… The boat is noticeably flexible under sail, the thrust of the leeboard twisting the side in and out in the puffs, but there doesn’t seem to be any harm in it." 

(Cruising) "[She is roomier inside…] As to the last point, the movable rowing seat (idea from L. Francis Herreshoff) makes plenty of room to lie down and the sail neatly covers the open part with the sprit for a ridgepole (also lifted from L.F.H.), but I’ve lost most of my enthusiasm for camping out in the New England climate in open boats." 

(Conclusion) "I admit to being quite proud of this design; apart from being the only successful attempt at a row-sail-motor combination I ever came across, it tends to blow up a designer’s vanity when an unusual solution to a troublesome problem works out exactly as expected."

Specifications

• Length: 15’ 6” (4.7 m)
• Width: 4’ (1219 mm)
• Weight: approximately 140 lbs (64 kg)
• Water Line Length: 12' 8" (3.9 m)
• Estimated Water Line Width: 35" (884 mm)
• Est. WLL/WLW Ratio: 4:4.1
• Hull Speed: 4.8 knots, 8.8 kph, 5.5 mph

Bolger's Thomaston Galley Layout Plan...

...Table of Offsets and Construction Plan...

...Optional Sail Plan.

Using these plans from the book, I built a scale model of just the hull, building it as I would build the full sized boat, I found no issues in construction.

Scale Model (Hull Only) of Thomaston Galley (T. Clarke)

Summary-Pros:

        Thomaston Galley is a ready-to-go Oar Cruiser...

•        She rows very easily as result of her deep "V" bottom and low windage. In the photo above, note the minimal wake behind the transom and yet Bolger is really pulling hard on the oars based on the swirl of water around the oar blades.
•        She has plenty of room for equipment and supplies in water-proof bags.
•        She's large enough to move around in, not feeling confined as in some other Oar Cruisers.
•        She sails well (with a sail, rudder and lee-board that Bolger designed) which would extend her cruising range.

Summary-Cons:

•         The weight of 140 pounds (64 kg) would make car-topping difficult... trailer would be appropriate.
•        The open design (except for the fore-deck) would require a large shelter to provide dry sleeping.
•        The open design also makes her subject to spray and/or large waves boarding her. 

Oughtred’s Snipefish

Iain Oughtred’s typical designs are clinker built (or strip planked). As Iain states below, Snipefish (go to Iain's site, click on catalog >> "Outrigger Skiffs >> "Snipefish") is different in that it is ‘stitch and glue’. Using only 2 sheets of 5 mm plywood, it is an amazingly light rowboat that could be converted into an oar cruiser.

Snipefish Lines

Iain’s writeup…

Out of character! this one is neither strip plank nor lapstrake! It's STITCH AND GLUE! Cartopped with ease and for its beam is the shortest possible sliding seat rowing shell. Any shorter and it will have the pecking hen look as the seat slides forward and back; nose dipping, nose rising, nose dipping, well, you know the look., a trainer sliding seat rowing shell that can be car roof topped. Plans include home built riggers and I believe (too lazy to use one so i have never seen it...) the sliding seat, too.  

Plans Overview

Specifications:

• Length: 15' (4.6 m)
• Beam: 2' 9" (838 mm)
• Freeboard Midships: 7.6" (193 mm)
• Weight: 55 pounds (25 kg)
• Water Line Length: 13' 5" (4.1 m)
• Water Line Width: 26" (668 mm)
• WLL/WLW Ratio: 6.1:1
• Hull  Speed: 4.9 knots, 9.1 kph, 5.6 mph

Construction:

Set of Building Photos

A Similar Boat in Action… 

This video is of an Echo Rowing Shell that is similar to Snipefish. The Echo is 3’ (.9 m) longer, but only 21” (533 mm) wide at the waterline vs. Snipefish’s overall width of 33” (838 mm).

As an Oar Cruiser?

If we added SOF decks fore and aft leaving a 4’ to 5’ (1.2 m to 1.5 m) cockpit opening, watertight bulkheads (with access hatches) providing a 7’ (2.1 m) sleeping area between the bulkheads, floorboards for ‘dry’ sleeping and to provide anchors for seat and foot rest (I would not use a sliding seat for the ‘oar cruiser’ version), a ‘tent’ covering for sleeping and an automatic bailer (or two), then Snipefish could be taken out in conditions as shown in the video.

Summary-Pros:

•  She is fast due to her high WLL:WLW ratio (6.1:1) and light weight.
• Easily car-topped.

Summary-Cons:

• Little room to move around in, whether rowing or anchored. 
• Low freeboard (similar to that of Colin Angus' Oxford Wherry 16) makes her subject to water entering the cockpit from splash and waves.

Can We Make a 12' Oar Cruiser?

I think the answer is "Yes"...

Jim Michalak's Vireo is a 4-panel design (two side panels and two chine panels), a variation used in many of his boats. As designed, Vireo is made with 3 sheets of 1/4" (6 mm) plywood and some "sticks" for gunnels and other parts.

I've rowed Vireo many times, found it very stable, easy to row and surprisingly fast for a 12' boat. I was able to row her at a sustained speed of 3.5 mph (3 knots, 5.6 kph) and sprint to about 5 mph (4.3 knots, 8.0 kph). The "V" bottom makes the boat initially unstable, but then very stable when one of the bottom panels becomes more immersed. 

Overview of Vireo Plans

Specifications:

• Length: 12' (3.7 m)
• Beam: 45" (1143 mm)
• Weight: 60 pounds (27 kg)
• Water Line Length: 10' 6" (3.2 m)
• Water Line Width: 45" (1143 mm)
• WLL/WLW Ratio: 2.8:1
• Hull Speed: 4.3 knots, 8.0 kph, 5.0 mph

Vireo at Round Valley Reservoir, NJ

Conversion to an Oar Cruiser:

• Replace temporary frame at station #9 with a water-proof bulkhead 6" (152 mm) aft of station #9 to support the after deck. Add a water-proof bulkhead at station #3 to create a 6'6" (1981 mm) cockpit.
• Eliminate temporary frame #4.
• Add an after deck to be crowned about 2" (51 mm) and 2'6" (762 mm) long.
• Add fore-deck (also crowned) 4' (1219 mm) long.
• Add 6" (152 mm) side decks.
• Add a coaming 2 inch by 3/4 inch (51 mm by 19 mm), which, in turn, supports the removable outriggers.
• Oar locks are installed on short outriggers that hook over the coaming.
• Add appropriate large access hatches to the fore and aft water-proof compartments.
• Add cross-slatted floor boards to provide a flat sleeping area and anchors for the rowing seat and foot braces.
• Add two bows to support a shelter cover at night.
• Note that the only changes to the original planned construction are the movement of the two bulkheads. All else are additions.
• I'd estimate the weight of the completed Oar Cruiser to be approximately 100 pounds (45kg).

Pictured below is a scale model of the conversion described above, with 8' (2.4m) spoon blade oars.

Proposed Conversion of Vireo to an Oar Cruiser

Summary-Pros:

• Easily built.
• Fast for her length due to V-bottom and chines just above the load water line.
• Wide enough to be comfortable.
• Weather-proof storage and secure in rough weather, with changes as described.

Summary-Cons:

• Initial tenderness due to V-bottom.
• Top speed is low due to short waterline length

**********

I can picture rowing down Barnegat Bay (New Jersey) in the late fall after all the jet skis are put away... listening to the gulls and terns... a cold breeze keeping the perspiration at bay... anchoring at dusk... tucked into a shallow cove behind a sedge grass knoll... buttoning up the cover and settling down to a hot cup of coffee and meal of Dinty Moore beef stew... roll out the sleeping pad and bag... sweet dreams!